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Close Encounters in the Rain Forest

Two weeks ago, my very good friend Harka Kumal invited me to a jungle walk in the Baghmara area in Chitwan National Park, Nepal. It was meant to be a shorter version of the first trip we did together more than 19 years ago. It turned out to be far more adventurous than we ever expected.

Chitwan National Park is situated in the southern part of Nepal, on the border to India. Covering over 900 square kilometers, its unique wildlife includes rhinoceros, tigers, crocodiles, monkeys, sloth bears and hundreds of bird species. The park was declared a world heritage site by UNESCO in 1984. The area holds shadowy Sal-tree forests, high elephant grass and muddy swamps covered by beautiful blue water hyacinths - a delicacy for the rhinos.

A tranquil canoe ride along one of the streams contributing to the Rapti River initiated the trip. Harka easily identified the birds as we quietly drifted by. No need to consult the well-thumbed bird handbook. A few white egrets proudly stretched their necks on the beach - too far away for my 120 mm lens.

Suddenly a magnificent mugger crocodile appeared in front of us. It seemed to enjoy the sunshine on the beach and took no notice of our presence, fortunately for us! I got a few shots before we moved on through the smooth water. Chitwan is the habitat for two species of crocodile. The mugger crocodile, eating smaller animals as they enter the river to drink and the fish-eating gharial. The gharial is close to extinction and a crocodile farm in the park tries to improve this situation by hatching eggs and reintroducing young crocodiles into the river.

Our canoe ride finished we continued on foot into the forest. 20 years of experience led Harka on familiar paths through the elephant grass and thick brush under the Sal trees. The snap of a twig made him freeze for a moment. Three deer swiftly jumped away in front of us and we moved on.

Now we were seriously looking for rhinos and Harka was determined to succeed. We went deeper into the gloomy woods. Squelching through the mud where we found fresh rhino tracks ahead of us. We arrived at a tiny lake in the dark sal forest - nothing here. We pressed on to the "Rhino Lake" mirroring the sal trees in the still water surface. There - at the far end of the lake a tall male rhino was quietly grazing on the water hyacinths. "Come quick" Harka whispered and tiptoed through the brush without a sound.

Well, rhinos are by no means harmless animals. An enraged rhino can easily reach speeds up to 40 km per hour and the only thing to do is to climb the nearest tree if attacked. So keep an eye on useful trees around you and always follow the instructions from the jungle guide! We quietly got closer, maybe 25 meters from the magnificent animal. A climbable tree close at hand.

Suddenly the rhino raised his head and looked at us with his poor eyes. We were detected!  His shaggy ears moved to pin-point us. We quickly scrambled up the tree trunk. The rhino sniffed the air for a while and continued to graze the water hyacinths beneath us. The only thing to do was to stay in the tree until the rhino went away. Twilight falling we had to leave to get back home before darkness. We discreetly slid down from our safe place and moved away through the brush.

Happy, tired and with the adrenaline still pumping we walked back home while the last rays of golden light filtered through the tree tops.

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Born inside the Chitwan National Park Harka Kumal is a licensed jungle guide with a great passion for its wildlife and nature. Uniquely talented he speaks en excellent English and his long experience of the rain forest makes him a well-reputed guide. With his boyish enthusiasm and sparkling energy he gives the visitors to Chitwan an adventure far beyond any expectations.

Meet Harka at the Hotel Seven Star or check his Facebook page.

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